Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Fall 2017

It’s difficult to put your finger on what ready-to-wear from Salvatore Ferragamo should be. The brand image as a leather goods house is one of timelessness and quality — belts, loafers, maybe a rainbow stacked platform spring to mind — but when it comes to the clothes, there’s a question mark. Now in his second season as women’s design director, Fulvio Rigoni is sorting out his vision of Ferragamo as a resource for real clothes that are “dynamic, luxurious, comfortable, yet sensual,” as he said backstage. Those words can go in many aesthetic directions, and, here, they haven’t crystalized just yet. He took some of the colors, shapes and mood of twisted luxury from a Serge Lutens TV campaign for Jun Ropé from the Seventies. “His idea of beauty is very peculiar and kind of surreal,” Rigoni said. “I translated it into very real.” Indeed, the shapes were very wearable with slim dresses, coats and skirts slit for movement and a fair amount of sportiness in some nice cropped puffer jacket[......]

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